Norell, Norman

(1900-1972)

   Norell was born in Noblesville, Indiana, the son of a haberdashery store owner. In 1919, he attended the Parsons School of Design and began his career designing costumes for the theater and film. From 1928 to 1940, Norell designed for Charles Armour and for Hattie Carnegie. From 1941 until 1960, Norell formed a partnership with designer Teal Traina and designed a collection of dresses, suits, and eveningwear under the label Traina-Norell. In 1961, upon Traina's death, he opened his own business and was known for his attention to quality and craftsmanship in the French couture tradition. In fact, he was often called the American Balen-ciaga. Signature looks of Norell include his eveningwear "mermaid dresses," his use of polka dots, sailor collars, and oversized bows, and his expertly tailored trouser suits. He was the first recipient of the Coty American Fashion Critic's Award in 1943 and was the first president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in 1965. The company continued after Norell's death with designs by the American designer Gustave Tassel, but it closed four years later.